The Collier Hindou is a necklace made by Cartier Paris for Daisy Fellowes, the Singer sewing machine heiress and Paris editor of Harper's Bazaar. It combines carved emeralds, rubies, and sapphires in leaf and floral forms, set with diamonds, drawing on the Mughal carved gemstone tradition that had come to define the house's Indian-inspired jewellery.
"Hindou" was the period term used by Cartier for pieces in this style. The word "Tutti Frutti" entered common use only in the 1970s, and Cartier trademarked it in 1989. The necklace is therefore properly a "Collier Hindou" in its original designation, though it is now widely referred to under the later name.
Cecil Beaton and Public Image
Cecil Beaton photographed Fellowes wearing the necklace in 1937. That image has become one of the defining visual records of Cartier's Indian-style jewellery from the interwar period, and has been widely reproduced in subsequent accounts of the house's work.
Fellowes as Client
Fellowes was not a passive collector. She was sharp, contrary in her tastes, and her choices carried influence precisely because they reflected genuine conviction rather than convention. The Collier Hindou sits alongside her other Cartier commissions, including a wartime iris brooch discussed at Daisy Fellowes's Cartier Iris Brooch, as evidence of a client whose preferences helped shape the direction of the house's output.
Sources
- Francesca Cartier Brickell, The Cartiers (Ballantine Books, 2019)