Cartier’s ‘New’ Watch Bracelet (in the 1910s)

A century ago, the papers both sides of the Atlantic were filled with excitement about ‘Cartier’s new bracelets’ (2nd image): “Over here”, a Paris correspondent wrote, “the smart world looks to Cartier for new inventions in jewellery…The wrist watch, which is Cartier’s, is now the fashion of the hour. Women are changing all kinds of jewellery for this new bauble.”

There’s been heightened interest recently in antique Cartier watches for men (and indeed the revival of old designs like the #Cloche at #WatchesandWonder2021), but the early #womenswatches have their own magic too. Part beautiful jewel, part practical timepiece, they preceded Cartier’s men’s watches by quite a few years. By the time the #CartierTank came to the market in 1919, Cartier’s delicate #watchbracelet for women, generally with a moiré silk or #diamondstrap, had already become something of a status symbol among fashionable women in London, Paris and New York (in her 1909 novel Elizabeth Visits America, #ElinorGlyn described a ladies’ luncheon in a New York mansion where the women were “all dressed in the most expensive, magnificent frocks from Paris and lovely jeweled Cartier watches”)

Wonder if this particular example of diamond watch ever made it to a ladies’ luncheon in Manhattan… it’s an interesting one because it both reflects the Belle Epoque period (with the #rosecutdiamonds, and the curved shape top and bottom) and yet still seems cutting edge today with its expandable platinum and #diamondstrap (no buckle required, it literally just stretches like elastic over one’s wrist). That magic mix of classic and modern was, in a way, the signature of #LouisCartier. He was something of a Steve Jobs of his day, always pushing the boundaries of design and innovation. With his #montresbracelets he insisted on something beautiful but also useful, and according to the international press 100 years ago, he succeeded: “There is this to say about the bracelet watch, that it is the most useful piece of jewelry that has been invented for many seasons.” Useful indeed... it still keeps time! Which would you choose: classic tank or antique watch bracelet?