Wallis Simpson's Cartier London Engagement Ring

Jewellery can mean many things to many people. Take #engagementrings - much more than the value of their constituent parts, they become imbued with emotional weight too. This one stands out, however, because its significance stretches far beyond a couple. It would come to symbolise the choice between love and duty, a decision that would change the course of history for an entire country.

I’ve long been fascinated by antique jewels for their power to bring history to life. The many chapters of an individual gem can shed light on not only those who owned it, but also those who sourced it and fashioned it into a wearable work of art. In the case of this ring, it all started in the 1930s when Jacques Cartier sent a trusted salesman to Baghdad to buy gems.

On his arrival, the salesman was informed that the gem sale had to be conducted secretly - he was forbidden to telegraph any details back to London except that he needed more money. Trusting his employee, Jacques had it wired over without delay. For such a large price, he supposed, Cartier would be acquiring an enormous number of precious gems. But when his salesman returned, he only had a small pouch. Out of this, he brought an emerald the size of a bird’s egg.

As a gemstone expert, Jacques marvelled at the chance to hold an emerald so magnificent it had belonged to the Great Mughal. Yet as a businessman, he was dismayed. Years ago, before the Russian Revolution, Cartier would have had no problem finding buyers for such a gem. But the 1930s was a different era. The only option was to cut the emerald in two. Though it pained Jacques to do so, he had to think of the business.

One polished half was sold to an American millionaire. The other (19.77cts) was chosen by the King as the centrepiece for a platinum engagement ring for #WallisSimpson. Traditionally, emeralds are not used for engagement rings. Compared to diamonds, the stone is soft and can scratch easily. But Edward VIII wasn’t interested in tradition…

Half a century later, this ring was sold (in its 1950s gold and diamond setting) for $1.9m @sothebys… How much of the value lies in the stories it tells?